Jean Paul Gaultier Is Arguably Supreme’s Edgiest Collaborator But
Supreme has revealed its newest high-fashion collaboration, this time with famed Parisian designer Jean Paul Gaultier. Gaultier is finest identified for his ready-to-wear label and couture collections of the ’80s, ’90s, and mid-’00s, in addition to his seven-year tenure as inventive director of Hermès.
The new Supreme drop is, in keeping with a fast survey of the Highsnobiety workplace, “robust,” one which has translated components of Gaultier’s legendary design philosophy right into a palatable vary of core streetwear and a bogo-fied version of his iconic Le Male perfume.
After studying his commerce beneath the tutelage of Pierre Cardin, Gaultier confirmed his first assortment in 1976. A younger Martin Margiela was watching and later gushed to Vogue, “I used to be seized by an pleasure I had by no means felt earlier than.” 9 years later, Gaultier employed Margiela as an assistant. The Belgian designer would finally make vogue historical past of his personal, and two years beneath Gaultier helped to foster that.
Gaultier earned his moniker as vogue’s enfant horrible with a procession of irreverent collections, usually reacting to the world round him with devious alacrity. For Spring 2005, towards the backdrop of France’s nationwide debate on homosexual marriage, editors had been invited to not a vogue present however to a “wedding ceremony,” with same-sex fashions strolling down the “aisle” in a set of kilts, unfastened satin tailoring, neon sportswear, and rusty orange denim.
At present, this model of social justice activism, or “wokeness,” has been commodified by manufacturers for industrial acquire (take Dior’s $710 “We Ought to All Be Feminists” T-shirt, for instance). However Gaultier has been difficult societal perceptions for the reason that starting. He has used various fashions on his runways, together with older males, these with closely pierced and tattooed our bodies, and plus-sized mannequin Crystal Renn, who closed his SS06 present.
Talking to Dazed in 2013, Gaultier mentioned, “I don’t wish to have only one particular picture of a girl in my exhibits. I wish to current what actually exists. And the identical for males.”
Exemplifying this mindset is Gaultier’s well-known SS91 present, which featured fashions of all sizes, ages, and ethnicities in a jubilant celebration of range. Practically three a long time later, some modern manufacturers nonetheless battle to diversify their casting to such a level.
Of all of Gaultier’s muses, together with shock-rocker Marilyn Manson and Gossip frontwoman Beth Ditto, none have been extra influential than Madonna. The Queen of Pop’s unforgettable conical bra corset was designed by Gaultier for her 1990 “Blond Ambition” tour, taking part in up completely to the singer’s provocative picture.
The lingerie type was first proven on the Gaultier runway in 1982, however the cone bra was really first original by the designer out of newspaper for his childhood teddy Nana within the ’60s. The look was modified a number of occasions after its (actual) debut and stands as arguably Gaultier’s most iconic(al) creation. Appropriately, the Gaultier x Supreme lookbook is fronted by Madonna’s daughter Lourdes Leon.
Gaultier’s willingness to shock and innovate is mirrored in vogue moments that seize headlines at present. When you concentrate on Jaden Smith donning womenswear gadgets for a Louis Vuitton marketing campaign in 2016, look again to 1998, when David Beckham was photographed in a Gaultier sarong whereas out with spouse Victoria, solely to be met with a mixture of intrigue and derision. You would say Gaultier and Beckham walked so Smith may run.
Equally, Chris Tucker’s wild seems as Ruby Rhod in Luc Besson’s 1997 sci-fi extravaganza The Fifth Ingredient had been a drag-style spotlight in a movie laden with eye-popping Gaultier costumes.
Among the many standouts within the Gaultier x Supreme assortment are the three-piece pinstripe swimsuit, an merchandise that doesn’t solely indulge our collective impulse to “gown up a bit” this summer season, but additionally highlights Supreme’s knack for spectacular particulars — on this case, the zipped pockets. Different highlights are the decadent fake fur plaid coat, the printed “Fuck Racism” jacket and denims two-piece set, and the leather-based holster made in collaboration with Schott.
However may the gathering be a bit of extra Gaultier? The designer’s well-known penchant for Breton sailor-striped shirts — impressed by his mom decking him out in marinière stripes as a child and the homosexual sailor in Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s 1982 movie Querelle — turned a signature look, embracing male sexuality and type when it debuted in Gaultier’s 1983 “Depuis” assortment. Certainly a Breton field brand tee would have been a sellout had it been within the assortment. There was additionally ample alternative to evoke Gaultier’s transgressive facet with a Supreme-branded man-skirt.
Is the streetwear world prepared for such issues? Who is aware of? However has Supreme ever prioritized being “acceptable”?
Nonetheless, in his sense of political defiance and willingness to problem society’s perceived norms, Gaultier is an ideal match for Supreme, which provides the designer to a progressively spectacular record of high-fashion collaborators, together with COMME des GARÇONS, Louis Vuitton, and Thom Browne.
Tune into The Dropcast under and take a look at what we needed to say in regards to the collab.