Ceviche Task in Silver Lake Has a Colorful Handle Seafood
Dressed in a linen t-shirt and a double-breasted white coat– an appearance that may befit a dapper marine officer on leave on some Caribbean island– Octavio Olivas sets the scene behind his dining establishment’s marble-topped bar. The 39- year-old previous legal representative, who dumped his day task in 2012 to open a roving pop-up called Ceviche Task, fractures open a rust-colored chocolata clam from Baja. He includes a drizzle of citrus juice and a spoonful of carefully diced xni-pec ( a Yucatán riff on pico de gallo made with habanero peppers) prior to moving it throughout the counter. An icy lager from Mexican craft brewery Cervecería de Colima sits close by. You might be forgiven for letting your mind drift in other places– Mexico City, Cabo, Tulum, Puerto Vallarta– essentially anywhere aside from the hectic, gridlocked area of Silver Lake’s Hyperion Opportunity where Ceviche Task has actually settled, a silently tucked-away palm-frond sanctuary of calm and, well, clams.
A modern-day mash-up of a beautiful raw bar and an outstanding cevichería, the dining establishment started as an idea that Olivas showcased in swank hotels and hip bars, initially throughout L.A. and ultimately to numerous cities in Mexico. However after years of wanderlust, Olivas looked for to offer Ceviche Task an irreversible house, changing a 28- seat sushi bar into a moody, intimate seafood counter (he invested a lot time building the area that the upstairs next-door neighbors misinterpreted him for the structure’s handyman). It’s here you’ll discover Olivas each night, nicely putting together tostadas of big-eye tuna with a spoonful of yuzu-habanero sorbet and crispy curls of shaved celery. A gleaming ice-packed screen case promotes the day’s oceanic rewards: razor clams from Oregon, sea urchin from Santa Barbara, or sweet snow-crab claws from Canada coupled with a hot mole-inspired dipping sauce made from sesame seeds and chile de arbol. There are alternatives beyond seafood, consisting of a Parmesan-dusted carpaccio made with very finely sliced mushrooms or a citrus salad amped up with toasted pepitas, mint, and a glug of chile-infused olive oil. However eventually you’re here for fruits de mer: Eventually in the meal, Olivas may slip you a fragment of fresh tostada dotted with sturgeon caviar.
In a city where a strong plate of ceviche is almost a due, Olivas’s garnished productions– a charred salsa here, a swipe of avocado mousse there– include intrigue without eclipsing the starring seafood. Include a glass of natural red wine (attempt the puckery orange red wine from Austria) and a grooving bossa nova soundtrack, and the outcome is among the more lovely date areas to strike L.A. in a long time. That you likewise get to witness Olivas cast his spell behind the bar is a capture of lime on top.
2524 1/2 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake
Remain on top of the most recent in L.A. food and culture. Register For our newsletters today.